Just 15 years ago, Lisbon had only a handful of steakhouses, and dry-aged beef was something of a rarity. Things began to change in 2013, when the Atalho group opened its first outlet: a small counter at Campo de Ourique, one of the city’s most traditional markets. Since then, the meat-focused concept has grown into a restaurant group, reaching the waterfront in 2021 with the opening of Atalho do Cais, right by Cais do Sodré.
The name is a clever play on words. In Portuguese, atalho means “shortcut”, but it sounds almost identical to o talho, meaning “butcher’s shop”. The pun neatly sums up the restaurant’s philosophy: a shortcut to good-quality meat, without unnecessary fuss.
The interior strikes a balance between stylish and relaxed. Exposed brick walls, subdued lighting, an open kitchen and a long bar counter create an atmosphere that works equally well for a quick dinner after work or a leisurely evening with friends.
But the main reason to visit Atalho do Cais isn’t just its steaks. It’s the restaurant’s signature creation: meat sushi. Instead of fish, the chefs use thinly sliced, lightly seared beef. The menu includes beef nigiri (€8) and Wagyu nigiri (€12), hosomaki with beef and mushrooms, uramaki with cream cheese, avocado and sesame, and a spicy gunkan topped with minced beef in kimchi sauce. It may sound unconventional, but the combination works remarkably well. The rice provides a neutral backdrop, while the meat takes centre stage.
The Wagyu carpaccio is another highlight: paper-thin slices of beef served with rocket, Parmesan, capers, toasted bolo do caco (a traditional Madeiran flatbread) and balsamic dressing. A classic combination, executed beautifully.
For the main course, there are several cuts to choose from, including rump steak (€18.50), picanha (€22) and a classic rib-eye (€28). Each steak comes with a choice of two sides. The Gratin Dauphinois, in particular, is well worth trying. Portions contain around 220g of meat, but if you’re particularly hungry, you can add an extra 100g for €8–10.
Expect to pay around €30 per person, including wine. It’s a fair price considering the quality of the meat and the attention to detail in its preparation and presentation.
Atalho do Cais is more than just another steakhouse. It’s an interesting meeting point between Portugal’s traditional meat culture and Asian-inspired presentation, offering a combination of quality and value that’s becoming increasingly hard to find.
