Some places do not need designer interiors to prove their worth. Right in the centre of Lisbon, on Martim Moniz square, amid the bustle of Mercado Oriental’s Asian food court, is Ramen Lanzhou—a small, unpretentious place that people visit not for spectacular presentation, but for the world’s best-known noodles.
The restaurant’s name refers to Lanzhou, a city in north-western China where the master Ma Baozi created a recipe for beef soup with hand-pulled noodles in 1915. This marked the beginning of Lanzhou Lamian, which became a national culinary legend in China. The “Est. 1915” sign refers not to the age of the Lisbon restaurant, but to a tradition it has continued for more than a century.
The main dish here is the classic Lanzhou Beef Noodles. The noodles are pulled by hand in front of customers, without any trace of factory production, giving them a firm, springy texture. The broth is rich and aromatic, with subtle notes of ginger. The quality of the meat is particularly impressive: the beef is completely lean, without a single piece of fat, thinly sliced and delicate enough not to overpower the dish, but to complement the broth perfectly. A generous amount of greens brightens the flavour further and adds freshness to the soup. The result is a large, warming and remarkably balanced bowl that leaves you feeling full rather than heavy.
And all of this costs just €9.90. In central Lisbon, steps away from one of the city’s busiest squares, it is difficult today to find another place where this price buys such a large serving of genuine hand-pulled noodles.
In addition to its signature soup, the restaurant serves Xiao Long Bao, dim sum, steamed meat buns, fried and cold noodles, and dishes with tofu, chicken and Sichuan spices. Still, the best introduction to the restaurant is the classic beef ramen—the dish that made Lanzhou famous far beyond China.
The interior is as simple and functional as possible: plastic tables, open kitchens, photos of dishes on the walls, noise from neighbouring stalls and a constant flow of people. This is exactly what creates the atmosphere of a genuine Asian food market. Nobody here is trying to turn street food into fine dining; it is simply prepared honestly, quickly and very well.
The city authorities are currently preparing a major redevelopment of Martim Moniz square and the adjoining Avenida Almirante Reis. Hopefully, the changes will make the neighbourhood more comfortable while preserving its undeniable strength: this distinctive Asian food court, which has become one of Lisbon’s most authentic food destinations in recent years.
